The
Secret: Bantu Knot Decoded
One of the best parts about being natural, is also one of the worst parts of
being natural. No matter how you try to create the perfect method for a twist
out, wash and go, braid out etc., you'll never get the same results. This is
frustrating to say the least, but this only intensified my intrigue to getting
the perfect bantu knot out. I’m going to let you in on my secret method. This
method works well for all hair types, straight hair, relaxed hair, and all
curly types. The method for relaxed/straight hair will be slightly different
than that of natural/curly hair. Let’s get started, but before we do let me
tell you my secret!
The Secret to the perfect bantu knot out is using light products and not over
moisturizing. I know many of you are thinking every YouTube guru, blogs, and
books tell you that applying thick butters and oil is what you hair needs in
order to grow. Not true! Only you know what works best for your hair. Take the
information that you find on YouTube, blogs, and the internet as a reference to
formulate what is best for your hair. I want to clarify that I am not telling
you to under moisturize your hair, your hair needs to be fully moisturized, but
do over saturate your hair in products, to compensate for the
characteristically dry nature of our hair.
Here’s what you'll need:
Foam Wrap (I used the Crème of
Natures Moroccan Foam Wrap)
Bobby pins
Wide tooth comb/Denman brush/tangle teaser
Leave in (I diluted my Trader Joes Moisture Balance Conditioner)
Moisturizer (Cantu Coconut Cream for Natural Textures)
oil (EVOO)
Hair Clamps
Satin hair bonnet
Gel (I used IC Fantasia) Its
alcohol free and light, EcoStyler is too heavy for my hair, but if you have type
4b/4c then it maybe be better for your hair.
If you have natural/curly hair follow these steps:
First you need to start with clean hair; this is key in achieving this look.
Follow your normal regimen of cleansing and conditioning. Once you have rinsed
out the conditioner you’re ready to begin.
Depending on the length of your hair you will need to divide your hair into
four sections and secure with hair clamps. This makes it easier distribute
product and style. I cleanse my hair in sections to prevent Fairy Knots.
1. Apply your leave in conditioner. When I’m doing bantu knots or a
twist out that I want to be fluffy curls, I take my Trader Joes moisture
balance conditioner
and water it down in a 1:1 ratio.
So if you use two tablespoons of conditioner you will mix it two tablespoons of
water. If you typically use a hair butter as your leave in then you will need to
switch to a watery consistency product.
Tip: Make sure the product is distributed from root to tip. Do not worry about
disturbing your curl pattern or creating frizz.
2. Apply your moisturizer/oil of choice to seal in your leave in. Make sure
that you aren’t using a heavy product. Your moisturizer should be the
consistency of regular yogurt (not Greek yogurt).
Tip: Over moisturizing your hair can be just bad as under moisturizing your
hair. Many people with kinky coily hair tend to over moisturize, because this
type of hair is naturally dry. By over applying products you suffocate you hair
and drown it in product, thus preventing moisture from getting in, and the hair
strand its self cannot take in any more moist. This then causes the hair to
swell, and the results are frizzy, limp, and lifeless hair.
3. Once you have finished applying your leave in and your moisturizer take
each section and break into sections, and then two strand twist. You should now
have approx. 8 to 12 twist.
4. Ready, Set, Stretch- the hair! You can achieve this in a few different
ways. First, you can blow dry your hair or you can allow to air dry or you can
air dry 85 percent and then blow dry. The ultimate goal is to get or rid your
natural curl pattern, so that it isn’t visible.
Tip: If you choose to blow dry your hair, use it on a low heat setting. Focus
on stretching out the roots, protect you hair from heat damage by rubbing no
more than a quarter size amount on your (entire) hair. Remember, the secret to
getting the best bantu knot out is to keep the hair as light as possible.
5. After your hair is completely dried and stretched, it’s time to style! Grab
your setting foam, and some gel. Now before you get product happy (I know I do)
I want to remind you, The Secret to this look is to keep the hair as light as
possible, so don’t go overboard on the product. I use IC Fantasia Gel. This is
one of my absolute favorite gels, because it gets the job done, it provides a
nice shine, doesn’t dry hard, and it’s very lite. Your hair should still be in
twist, before you begin styling you want to make sure that you part your hair
the way you want to wear it. Unravel a section, and apply a dime size amount of
gel from route to tip, and then re-twist. Complete this step until you have
completed your entire head.
6. Using your setting foam apply one pump of foam to a twist and begin
wrapping it around itself to create a bantu knot, secure the end with as bobby
pin. Complete this step until you complete your entire head. If you are unsure
how to properly do a bantu knot click
here. I love Naptural85, this is how I learned to correctly do a bantu knot!
7. Allow your bantu knots to set for no less than 6 hours (overnight or
until dry). The longer they sit the more definition you will see.
8. The Take Down! Grab your favorite oil, I recommend jojoba, EVOO, or coconut
oil. Stay away from oils that are super heavy, like castor oil. Rub a nickel size
amount in your hands and begin unraveling.
9. Once all your knots are unraveled, you can separate your knots to your
desired volume. Avoid over separating, because the look you’re trying to achieve
is full big curls. Over separating creates a messy look with no definition. To
create more volume use a seamless volume pick, lift from the root ONLY, but DO
NOT pull through the curl.
10. To maintain this look simply, re-twist and bantu knot. I personally can’t
sleep in bantu knots every night, so an alternate option is re-twist and wrap
your hair around perm rods or flexi rods.
If you have a coarser hair texture, this will work for you too, because you
are applying enough products to adequately moisturize your hair. I want to
stress that I am in no way saying to under moisturize your hair. The
combination of the gel, foam wrap, and the actual bantu knot will give you
defined look. I recommend that you forgo separating altogether. Instead once
you unravel your bantu knots, use the a volume hair pick to blur the parts and
to create fullness.
If you have pin straight hair or your relaxed, then all that you need to do is apply foam wrap to semi damp hair. Do not saturate the hair with water, simply mist it. Two strand twist your hair and bantu knot. To secure your bantu knot, use a bobby pin. If you are like my sister, who works out, and doesnt want a lot of hassle or doing bantu knots, simply forgo the bantu know step, and use flexi rods. This is a great way to deal with gym hair! Click
here to see how to do a bantu knot out on relaxed/straight hair.
I would love to see the results you get, send your results to
callingallcurls12@gmail.com and I will upload
them to my blog and link you to the pic.
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